Lego Printed
Lego Printed
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LEGO ~ Printed Brick 1 x 4 with Gold 122 Text Pattern ~ 3010px46 ~ (From 1969) $6.27 |
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LEGO ~ Printed Brick 1 x 4 with 4WD Text and Blue Stripes Pattern ~ 3010px20 $1.56 |
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100 Lego Small & Tiny Random Bricks Accent/Detail Parts Bulk Lot B1 Printed Pcs+ $7.99 |
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OLD ~Lego Toy Building Set HARVESTER TRACTOR PRINT AD~ ORIG VINTAGE 1980s RARE $14.95 |
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Lego Lot OF 2 MUMMY HEADDRESS HATS EGYPTIAN PIECES AND Printed Parts $7.99 |
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Custom Lego Figure Super Mario Machine Printed Using LEGO® Parts $10.99 |
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Large Lot OF Mixed Lego PRINTED/STICKER PARTS. $1.56 |
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10 Used Lego 2 x 3 Printed Slopes Star Wars $2.90 |
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Lego Minifigure PRINTED BRICK & KEYBOARD SET X1 15B $1.59 |
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LEGO MINIFIGURE PRINTED RADAR BRICK & KEYBOARD X1 15B $1.85 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Castle Kingdoms Dragon Knight Cape $2.10 |
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Custom Lego Printed Red & White Templar Cross Cape $2.10 |
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LEGO 4 x Printed Bricks ~ (Pack of 4) ~ p89 $2.75 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Burgandy & White Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Orange Tiger Striped Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed White Zebra Striped Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed HP Potter Hufflepuff Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed HP Potter Gryffindor Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Crown Knight Capes & Flag Pack $9.99 |
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Lego Castle Wall panel Harry Potter Knight Kingdom Old Light Gray Window printed $24.99 |
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Lego Castle arch panel Harry Potter Knight Kingdom Old Light Gray Window printed $24.99 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Black Falcons Capes & Flag Pack $9.99 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Castle Kingdoms Lion Knight Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Star Wars Red Pauldron & Kama $2.80 |
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Lego Star / Clone Wars – Darth Maul SITH APPRENTICE WITH TATTOOS Custom Printed $18.84 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Dark Brown “Ripped” Troll Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Black Knights Dragon Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Vladek Castle Scorpion Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Castle Tree of Life Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Black Falcons Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Castle Lion Knights Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Superman Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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CUSTOM LEGO Printed Batman Minifig Cape $2.10 |
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Vintage Lego Robo Stalker Very Rare printed legs Minifig 2153 $0.99 |
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Lego Minifigure Car Truck Engine Block Set NEW x2 printed 2A $1.75 |
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Lego Star Wars CHEBACCA 6212 RARE COMES WITH LEG PRINT $10.99 |
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lego Minifigure slope printed buttons brick base Exc Cond x1 12A $0.99 |
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LEGO Minifigure Star wars printed control panel brick panel x1 NEW 3B $1.10 |
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105 Piece Lego lot Finishing Tiles with printed/sticker pattern Some Star wars $19.99 |
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Lego Dark Tan Globe Cylinder Complete World Print NEW $2.47 |
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10 Used Lego 2 x 2 Printed Tiles Decorated $3.19 |
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10 Used LEGO 1 x 4 Printed Tiles Decorated $3.61 |
printing lego decals?
what do i print the lego decals on
sticker paper is what i do.
Building a Home Brew Power Supply
Illustration 11 An old Power Supply, lotsa cables coming out!
Old PC’s, pre-PII, Version:
Basically, the PC output is 0V, and +5V at 20 A, +12V at 8A, -5V at0.5 A, and -12V at 0.5 A (See picture below).
Illustration 12 See the warnings? Better follow them!
But that means, disregarding for a moment the Amps, that combining a -12V and a +12V, you get 24V!
What’s best, as the output’s a bunch of wires, you can have multiple independent 5V / 0 outputs, for example, not the same with a cheapo multi-voltage transformer.
Here’s the wire colors and their respective Voltages:
*The orange wire, inside the box, which you can open at Your Own risk, seems to be +3.3 V on ATX Power Supplies, but this one’s a 386 PC Power Supply that we won’t open!!
It’s best to have as many rows of outputs as you could get from the number of independent cables available, but I’ll only show 2 for this example.
In total, without opening the box, it’s best, here’s the possible outputs:
That can and must be extended if you’re considering the Amperage, and you must do that, as some Electronic components won’t take something like 20A without hissing and smoking, and going out of business!
The experimental approach, and a good Multimeter, would have solve that problem, but if you make some calculations, and know that two different Amperages in serial go down to the lowest Amperage, you get:
Illustration 13 The asterisk marks THIS last 17V 0.A is from the White wire output.
Here you can roughly see what can be done, the small box is the PC Power Supply, the white spaces are where the 9 outputs are shown;Remember, you can use the PS power plugs, use some thick copper wire soldered to the wire you unse on the binding posts, to make a “jackplug” of sorts, to pluck into the plug’s holes, that way you can internally re-arrange the outputs at will!
Leave one of those plugs sticking out if you like, so as to check Hard Disks and CDs and what not, OUTSIDE your PC…
I think it’s better to spend some cash on binding posts, and have the outputs clearly printed on top of these 9 pairs of posts, than to have only 5 posts, an output table, and a lot of opportunities to make mistakes!
So why use posts at all, not some pairs of wires sticking out?
Because this way, you still can use the first table, and have the best of both worlds.
A tip from Amuron, from the Inventors Garage, http://www.inventorsgarage.com/, you still don’t have to open the box, all it takes, in his own words is that,
“You need to address the power enable pin #14 being pulled low for it (ATX) to function”.
ATX version:
Notice the Green wire? PS-On! Also, a Polyswitch current limitation will help the thing not going kaput, although using a weaker fuse than the ones you’ll find on the ATX may fix that. See the wire color values? New voltages, and different Amperages! Yes, you’ve guessed right, it needs a completely different set of tables!
Here’s the values for the wires, Volts and Amps, and now the 20(!) different possible outputs, some of them giving identical outputs, but with different wires, all here…
Please note the lower row of outputs is just a lot of 5V and 12V outputs, so as to take advantage of the many wires available.
Not shown here, but you can leave one of those 4 Pin PC Plugs sticking out, good for some occasional PC Peripheral, (HD, Floppy Drive, CD, etc.) testing!
Take some time, dismounting the Power Supply out the PC so you can use the PC’s own on/off switch, do some wire cutting and soldering, check and re-check the outputs with a Multimeter, here you have it, a Power Supply for next to nothing.
Of course you can use the inside wires to use the Led wires, on ATX PCs Power Supplies, you can do a lot of Pazzazz, but if you know that much, you’ll know how to, this one for most people, that can cut a wire and solder it, build a box, pierce some holes on metal plate, and not much else!
Visit my Site at http://build.your.own.prototypes.googlepages.com/How-tos.html
About the Author
Name: Edgar Castelo
Prototype building how-to Site:
http://build.your.own.prototypes.googlepages.com/How-tos.html
Made this Site to help Inventors make their Prototypes, and it just grew and grew…
So go and visit the link above!
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